YOUNG & OLD⏲️ (STROBL + DECADE OLD GUT OGGAU)

Source note: This post is adapted from Parched's October 15, 2026 newsletter

Heya,

As I type, a big allocation is currently sitting in front of me waitin’ to be unloaded. If you like high-grade Jura, set a reminder for 11am tomorrow morning and/or keep an eye on our Instagram…

For now, and whilst I wipe the tears from my eyes unpacking our latest order, I bring you something more immediately vibrant and youthful. Last month, Lukas Strobl came to taste. I like being the first appointment of the day. Winemakers still have a bit of enthusiasm before they spend the next 6 hours bouncing around London, overwhelmed by the Tube, repeating the same spiel over and over to the trade. The Strobl name is one I'd been familiar with, but it wasn't until sitting down with Lukas, and learning about the new direction he's taking things in, that I realised this is a journey I'll be following closely.

His father, Clemens, is more well known. A pioneer in putting Wagram on the map for serious drinkers. Previously overlooked as bulk wine land, Clemens was one of the first to showcase single-site wines representing the vast and varied terroir of what's weirdly referred to as Lower Austria, despite being in the north. Any Austrian wanna tell me why?

Anyway, things started out more high-tech, but practices quickly shifted over time to what I’d consider the right way of farming. Organic farming began in 2012, certification followed shortly after, and now Lukas is pushing things further still, and also bottling his own wines with more freedom. He got a degree in international wine business at the university in Krems but wanted more hands-on experience, so he went to work with Pranzegg in Alto Adige, and with Clemens Busch in the Mosel. Nice work experience for sure.

He's now taking on more responsibility across both vineyard and cellar. Progressive without being dogmatic. Biodynmaic and regentreive practices woven in, soil health treated with the utmost respect. In the cellar, things feel freer yet still clean, precise and layered. It's was his wines that really piqued my interest.

In particular, we have a pair of his bright and breezy bottlings, blends designed to be uncomplicated in their deliciousness. Immediate and effortless, the kinda wines I want to drink 24/7. The white is tropical and textured but still mineral and tingling, just watch it evolve through the bottle! The red is crunchy, a little herbal, and best from the fridge. Again, it changes as it warms, and has instantly gone into my rotation.

He makes some more serious wines too. My pick of the bunch was his Cab Franc. I didn't think Cab Franc from Austria would land in pole position for one of my wines of the year, but the world is full of surprises. From the first sniff, I knew I was in trouble. Big trouble. It instantly reminded me of the wines of Clos Rougeard. I've tasted in the legendary cellar, sorry not sorry, and this would not have looked out of place in the slightest.

Picked from just four rows of recultivated, old Cabernet Franc vines in the Mordthal site in Rupperstal, on poorer loess but with very sunny exposure. Only 24 bottles in the UK, and I begged for as many as we could get. Sadly, just 3. Ripe berries on the nose, whilst the palate shows serious varietal typicity. There is tannin, but things are soft and supple. An exceptional use of barrel and long élevage. This completely changed my mind on what wine from this part of Austria could look like. It's straddling the perfect balance between ripeness and a cool-climate frame. I said it before, but it's the closest thing I can afford to Clos Rougeard of the old, golden era. It’s that GOOD. Idc if you don't take my word for it, just means more for me, and there really isn't much…

On the topic of Austrian wein, we've had a small restock from our favourite family, Gut Oggau, ahead of their trip to London next week. The whole lot are tasting great atm. I can also source older bottles on request… Flick me an email.

Their Family Reunion wines have now spent a decade since coming off the vine. In 2016 they lost the majority of fruit to hail and frost, and as such it has been the only vintage where they’ve blended all their sites into a singular, holistic expression. The Weiss has gone gloriously golden yet the cool-climate acid line hasn't budged an inch. The Rot has taken on plenty of tertiary, earthen charm, again without losing the estate's signature energy. Mature zero-zero wine is, IMO, one of life's great pleasures. Having been stored patiently and perfectly in the lovely cellar of our friendly supplier, this is one family reunion you'll want to attend.

Speaking of mature zero-zero wine, 2012 Biancara anyone? Mr Maule, the Triple A founder (Italy's premier natural wine body), always delivers with his wines, I personally preferred them back in the day though for the extra vibrant expressions. This is about as old-school Italian as it comes. Tocai Rosso is the Venetian slang for Grenache. Here, growing on volcanic soils and made totally without input. The plush fruit peeling away to reveal so much tertiary charm and letting its volcanic minerality show clearly. Soy-like umami and savouriness for days. I was recently in the region, where Cavallo is a local delicacy, and this would’ve been a real nice match, but back here in the UK I think I'll stick to regular beef steak…

In other news, a new drop of Pierre Péters Les Chétillons. Icon. Also, because we're nice and kind, you won't find it cheaper.

On the topic of fizz, I tasted lots of Champagne on Monday in a dimly lit cave. It's not my personal favourite spot, but still, this 2012 Nowack went absolutely off. Laval was looking extra good too, with such gorgeous primary fruit. Another standout, and weighing in at half the price, is Mouzon Leroux. L'Atavique is cheaper than many a grande marque, yet the farming is first in class for the Marne. He was a pioneer of agroforestry, with sulphur use nearly zilch, dosage low, barrel ferments and long élevages. Stop sleeping on them.

Bisou,
Fionn
xoxox