BIG TIME BOURGOGNE⛹️ (BURG BURG BURG)

Source note: This post is adapted from Parched's October 13, 2026 newsletter

Hiya,

Back on my BS. Burg Sh*t. As the weather cools, and evenings are spent firmly rooted inside rather than the pub gardens, now is the season for those big bottles from every wine lover's favourite region. Idc if it's getting expensive, it slaps.

Just reloaded on some gear from Marthe Henry Boillot. One of those surnames that carries weight round here. Not always a sure sign of quality, mind. Yet, she is the granddaughter of Pierre Boillot, who made srs stuff, and she does operate out of his former cellar in Meursault. It was previously occupied by François Mikulski too…

The project is négoce but with serious sourcing whilst she waits to regain access to fruit from the family holdings. She studied in Beaune and spent time with Rougeot before starting out in 2017 with just 12 humble barrels. The success of her wines has meant she has now expanded, and has roughly 75. Barrel ferments and elevage for up to 18 months, unracked and only sulphured if deemed necessary, though there will be a tiny touch on bottling. The reds retain the stems to give spice and lift.

Her Bourgogne Blanc is a perfect example of the regional appellation, it's textured but fresh. The first wine I drank when stepping foot in Beaune was this. Popped into the first shop I saw, picked this up alongside a slab of goat cheese. The perfect pairing. There is one sulphite-free bottling here too. Very rare. The Rully is a step up in length and longevity. Underrated but not for much longer. She handles reds elegantly. Even in the warm 2022, Saint-Martin is finely boned and silky. Marthe is super talented, humble, and the wines feel like drinking Burgundy of old.

Seiichi Saito of Petit Roy is another new name that needs attention. A CV of serious pedigree. Mugnier, Leflaive and Rousseau among them, and landing a long stint at Simon Bize before going solo.

His wines have classical ripeness but with modern tension. They feel broad and layered on the palate but with energy in spades. I feel like Seiichi is a perfect example of the modern-day Burgundian vigneron. The wines feel polished enough to appeal to more traditional palates, but with the vitality that makes them appeal to those with more experimental tastes too. They're just really delicious, high-thread-count wines that drink like silk.

I think you can tell a lot about a Burgundian vigneron by how they handle Aligoté. Say no more. Saint-Romain is another personal favourite locale of mine, and this is from a prime lieu-dit. A plateau at the top of the hill, exposed south, allowing for wonderful concentration. It's almost exotic before suddenly going all sharp and steely on the finish.

The red feels more traditional than his modern-day peers. It's got a bit of structure, less stem influence here, and a clay-heavy parcel bringing some darker fruit. Things do finish lighter and brighter than you'd initially expect, and this was so good that, at the end of a day of tasting 60+ wines, this was what I poured myself an actual glass of. Go figure.

A bit of work from Théo Dancer too! At only 20 he took over the reins at Domaine Vincent Dancer, the famed Chassagne-Montrachet estate. His youthful energy allows not one, but two, side hustles that personally appeal to my palate and wallet a little better. Roc Breïa is the label that focuses solely on the Mâconnais. It tastes like it's from much further north, with its length and detail. I know it's a myth that a heavy bottle means quality, but right here we're on the money. The price is super good on this too.

If you want some more £££ gear, probably the best Mâconnais Rouge you’ll ever taste. Powdery tannin for days. This sees Chardo take on even more power! Less oak derived than domaine stuff, this is about as pure and persistent as it comes.

Aligoté, from Théo Dancer, the other négoce label. This guy must like work, as this label sees fruit sourced from wherever. Again, someone showing the same love and care as he does with his Chardonnay. This is tightly coiled and reductive atm, but if you decant it, be prepared for a silly good ride. This is the Theo style in a nutshell, without remortgaging your house. Idk why you're still reading this.

The Burg shelf is really, really, really full atm. HELP ME. All the Pataille in stock. Seriously. It's a huge stack. De Moor is still floating around too. What? Benoît Moreau, again WHAT!?! Maison Meyer micro production. Icy Liu, even tinier production. 3-Star Michelin Hubert Lamy. New natty royalty Arnaud Lopez and Dandelion. Bastien Wolber négoce. Power couple, Litaud + Simon Faure. I could go on and on. Have a browse, and treat yourself. You deserve it.

Bisou
Fionn
xoxo
xoxo