FORZA ITALIA! 🍝

Source note: This post is adapted from Parched's June 4, 2026 newsletter

Hey,

Just how good is Italy? How good is fizzy wine? How good is both?

I've gone a little hard on Lambrusco this week. But Claudio Plessi's work is both profound and incredibly important. Over the last 50 years, Claudio has been unwavering and is a pivotal figure in the agronomic landscape of the hills around Modena. Professor of agricultural science and researcher at the Universities of Parma and Bologna, he has been a fervent voice in the preservation of old cultivars and winemaking heritage. A political activist, a workers' advocate, and a proponent of organic and sustainable viticulture for decades. What a king.

Born in 1952 on the family farm in Castelnuovo Rangone, his family has always farmed fruit and vines. Organics have been fully applied since the 80s. Most notably, his research has single-handedly rediscovered forgotten varieties on the brink of extinction. Located on the east bank of the river Tiepido, his three hectares grow on alluvial soils rich in limestone and sand. His vineyard now acts as a library of genetic material from years gone by. Uva Tosca, Festasio, Lambrusco del Pellegrino, Uva Ruggine, Trebbiano di Spagna, and Sgavetta. He has saved all, and now we get to taste.

Vignerons like this are so important, both historically for the protection of culture and for demonstrating the serious quality that work of this nature can produce. Whilst now Lambrusco is finally getting international traction and shaking its murky past of overly sweet sticky fizz. Without people like Claudio, I'm not sure the Renaissance would have happened. This is Lambrusco at the absolute pinnacle.

Lambrusco is not just a style of fizzy red wine wine, it is a group of grape varieties. Each varietal is unique in its own charm, and Claudio has captured their singularity in enriching, soulful bottles. They are also fun and frothy. Most importantly, they are utterly delicious. Grazie!

Lambrusco del Pellegrino here. Bone dry, and full of wild strawberries and lashings of herb. Grasparossa here, and this bottle is nearly a decade old. All earthen and balsamic. A vin de Garde, showing that Lambrusco can age. Uva Tosca here. Blushing pink, grapefruit-like and very vertical. All are a must.

Not Plessi, but also a Lambrusco you can't ignore. Rosato fizz of the highest order. Di Sorbara is the lithest, most floral of the Lambrusco family. I opened this recently and the bottle was gone in under 5 minutes. Seriously, it was like my glass had a hole in it. I’d pour a glass, and just like that it was gone. Magic eh? Call your local pizza joint, and go to town.

Italy, I’m not done! We're down in Abruzzo next.

Just how good is Cerasuolo? If I could only drink one rosato style for the rest of my life, it would be something from here. Valentini, Emidio Pepe, Amorotti, and now Colle Florio. Andrea Ugolotti was a top somm before going all in on winemaking, notably learning from the iconic Franco Soldera. Yep. We're not playing games this week.

This is emotional drinking. Reductive at first, but give it time and you'll find, minerals and earthy charm in abundance, all sitting atop gorgeous sharp strawberry and citrus-driven fruit. Refreshing & interesting.

In case you didn't know, this is vastly different from what you'll find scattered across Italy. Lower yielding and capable of making some of the finest, most long-lived wines in the world. A mix of young vines bringing freshness and older vine material bringing complexity. We're at 200 metres above sea level on limestone and clay too.

There's again a nice reductive touch before everything fleshes out into an array of nuts, hay, and golden fruit. Taut and mineral, chalky texture, and an unmistakable saline Italian finish. So familiar yet so unique at the same time. I said to a friend it's a bit like if Emidio Pepe's wines had a love child with a Jurassic farmer.

More Italy? Can't stop, won't stop.

We just got a miniscule allocation of Le Boncie. It's currently raining in June but all is now well, as I’ve just popped one of these corks.

Tiny quantities of Le Trame! Just so pure right now, all exotic and perfumed. Sweet spice, blood orange, salumi, roses, tomato leaf, Negroni-like bitters. I could go on indefinitely. All-encompassing but without ever feeling heavy or lethargic. 2022 is another belting vintage. There's still a bit of tannin here but this is very approachable already. A decant and good glasses are a must. Will happily live in the cellar for a billion years too.

Cinque is Giovanna's wine designed to be popped and poured with abandon. Younger vines, raring to go right from release. Sadly, stupidly allocated, so whilst I'd happily drink this daily I have to ration myself and you. Literally, we got just three.

The name nods to several numerological coincidences: the five grape varieties of the estate (Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Colorino, Mammolo, and Fogliatonda), the five leaves and flowers per bunch of a grapevine, and the winery's home address. Good things come in fives. This is so fruit-driven it darts between red and blue. An assault of berries and herbs. I love her wines. They feel like a warm hug on a cold day. Make yourself a simple pasta, pop a cork, and there you go. One of the better evenings you can have on this earth.

Right, I think I’ve calmed down and also now booked myself the cheapest flight to Italy.

But before I go, ICYMI yesterday, Boulanger & Allante went live. Our initial allocation sold out in minutes. I've worked my magic and managed to get a teeny-tiny bit more for you. Aren't I good?

OK, that's me done. Sorry. I just love wine. And I love you.

Bisou,
Fionn
xoxoxoxo