COOLIN' OFF 🧃 (CRAIGHEAD x CALSAC)

by Fionn Reidy

Source note: This post is adapted from Parched's June 2, 2026 newsletter

Hey,

How are we all? I’ve somehow gone from glorious sunshine to being stuck in the rain tyring to navigate the hell that is London during a tube stike. Life eh? Thank god for the one constant, nice wine. Whatever the weather.

Really digging what's coming out of New Zealand rn. Ashleigh Barrowman and A Thousand Gods have both been a real hit with you, so we thought we'd push the offering further.

Alex Craighead has been around for a while. His Kindeli bottlings were some of the first wines to get me hooked on natural leaning wine and stuff outside of Europe in general. A little wilder back then, but as with many in the business, his palate has grown more precise and he now has his own vines to play with. Kindeli Orange is probably the last we'll see of this project as he looks to focus on domaine fruit. This is a keenly priced, big blend that balances aromatics, citrus, and texture. It’s effortless, and a nice feel for what is to come. Osijan was originally only meant for the Japanese market but the importer couldn't say no either. Equal parts floral and fruit driven, with maceration dialled back a bit. Both zero zero, both stable, nothing weird or faulty, just great wines.

The Home line is where Alex really flexes his muscles though. Domaine fruit farmed with intent, no sulphur at all in the winery. Stable but not lacking energy or character. All sitting under £30 too, which is honestly some doing. I think these guys in New Zealand might have cracked it. They’re applying new world cleanliness to old world flavour profiles. Usually, I find those in the Southern Hemisphere to lean too far into one extreme. Domatically natty and wild, or too much winemaker-y stuff covering things up, leading to boring bottles heavy handed with the So2. This range shows you can make squeaky clean, zero-zero wine down here. Oh, and that it also doesn’t have to cost the earth either. Europe take note!

The white is mainly Chardonnay with a nice core of fruit, whilst minerality and salinity is doubled down on with the unlikely addition of Vermentino. The orange is fresh and citrusy with just the right amount of grip. Alex is a maceration master, one of the few too coax out florals without letting things get flabby. This is very balanced and hard to put down. The red is Pinot and Gamay brightened up further with a bit of Pinot Gris. Creative concoctions are clearly a calling card for Mr Craighead. Plenty of red fruit but far from mere glou glou. Small berry Pinot spice and a herbal note too. Very very good.

What else? Well, we've done it again. Another hyped grower from Champagne, but for once keenly priced. Calsac. A Blanc de Blancs par excellence. If you like things racy and nervy, this is for you. In the sun, there is nothing better than pure mineral Chardo, and this is a grower on everyone's lips right now. Oyster wine. Get in early before the hype train hits full steam.

New in is the cult-y Boudignon pink. Very much IYKYK. Boudignon is widely considered one of the finest producers in Anjou. I'd have him firmly alongside his best mate and Chartreuse drinking buddy Richard Leroy (Facts, learnt this on my visit last year). We all need a friend like that. His Chenins speak for themselves. Different to Leroy, less wild, but still terroir-driven and laser-like. Immaculate and finely tuned. Pretty much perfect. Some maturing bits can be found here.

Yet it's the keenly priced pink that is the real collector’s item. Watermelon levels of refreshing but with a gastronomic side too. Can go solo or hold its own at the table. Stupidly affordable and sought-after means one thing: it won't be on the shelves for long.

Finally, a pair of reliable and rock-solid bottlings from Will Arnold. His father runs one of the finest and longest-standing import businesses in the UK, which meant Will got to dive headfirst into experience with the heavyweights. Chave and PYCM, with time across Oregon and New Zealand too. His project out of the Rhône is a combination of all those worldly learnings.

The Côtes du Rhône is a nod to his late grandfather who'd crack into a bottle daily at noon. King. Mid-weight perfection, I can think of no occasion this won't improve. Most impressive though, is an exceptionally well-worked Chardonnay. Fresher and more vibrant than the last vintage I tasted, with really sapid fruit and a silky mouthful. Enough texture and mineral charm to make you question why you're paying more for anything with Burgundy on the label.

That should be plenty to see you through.

Sorry, one more thing. Just got a tip off. The most hyped Jura producer right now, Allante & Boulanger, is landing sooner than I thought. Going live at 1 pm tomorrow. Set a reminder. See you at the checkout.

Also, come drink 14-year-old Chenin with me on Monday!!! Last few tickets.

Bisou,
Fionn
xoxo