Peter-Jakob Kühn started in 1979, the eleventh generation of his family to assume responsibility. This is one of the few estates in Germany to use biodynamic methods, and he and his family do it with awe-inspiring passion and thoroughness. The conversion was gradual and started at home: unhealthy food was banned – no white sugar, white flour or processed foods of any kind. They realised that the chemical industry was encouraging an unhealthy dependence in farmers on its products, side-lining nature in the process. So they abandoned herbicides and insecticides, anti-fungal sprays, and cultured yeasts; in 2001 they took the plunge and became biodynamically certified. They are now one of Germany’s leading growers.