Best known as the founder of Ossian in Rueda, Ismael Gozalo has been making his own wines from the family vineyards in the hamlet of Nieva since 1998. The vines are 130 to 280 years old, on original rootstock, sitting 800-900 metres above sea level on sandy soils that have never seen a chemical treatment.

In the cellar he defies logic at every turn. Incredibly gentle pressing, fermentation and ageing across glass demijohns, steel, oak and amphora, racked between vessels whenever he sees fit. Extended lees contact is the one constant. The results are released under two labels, Vinos Ismael Gozalo and Microbio Wines for the more experimental.