In the village of Coutures, Saumur, Kaya Tsutsui continues the legacy of Xavier Caillard's iconic Les Jardins Esméraldins. It's a story worth knowing. When Xavier left abruptly in 2016, the vines sat essentially abandoned for two years before new owners stepped in. Kaya's background in Japanese natural wine importation meant he was perfectly placed to navigate the transition, drawing on years of connections and knowledge to get the domaine back on its feet.

Restoring the vineyards was no small task. A low-or-no-till approach required careful pruning, gentle soil work in the Chenin parcels and sowing nitrogen-rich legumes between the vines. Much of this came courtesy of Rhone winemaker and friend Hirotake Ooka, which tells you something about the circles Kaya moves in.

Today the domain is 5 hectares on south-easterly slopes surrounding the old chateau. Beneath it all, classic Saumur tuffeau with pockets of sandstone and clay.

The cellar is carved into that same tuffeau. Grapes come in at ground level, macerate and ferment in fibreglass, then drop by gravity to barrique below. Élevage is long and considered, respecting what Xavier built here. The first vintage under the new name was 2018, released only in 2023. Good things take time. These are worth the wait.