La Biancara, SoSan 2012

Place: Colli Eugane, Italy

Grape: Tai Rosso

Vibe: Earthen

Old school Italian. Tocai Rosso is the Venetian slang for Grenache. This is grown on volcanic soils and made totally without input from a pioneer of the natural wine movement in Italy. Zero zero liquid history. This has gone all earthen and savoury, that plush fruit peeling away to reveal so much tertiary charm and allowing its volcanic terroir to show clearly. Soy-like umami and savouriness. I was recently in the region, where horse is a local delicacy, and this would be a nice match, but back here in the UK I think I'll stick to regular beef steak... ABV: 14.5%