A passionate adherent to biodynamic principles in both the vineyard and cellar, David Léclapart crafts some of the most compelling champagnes from his 3 ha plot in the village of Trépail (Montagne de Reims). Unusually for this region, his vineyards are planted almost entirely with Chardonnay, which gives a racier style arguably showing more tension than the Pinots. His L’Amateur cuvée is vinified in enamel-lined tanks because he thinks stainless steel gives the wines a negative energy – and we’re not going to argue. All of his other wines are aged in used barrels which he gets from his mates at Domaine Leflaive in Burgundy (so they’re top quality, obvs). Léclapart’s Champagnes are often slightly oxidative, but they weigh in very elegant and pure too. Basically, they’re winners.