Bruno cut his teeth working in a certain Champagne cellar, that of Vincent Laval. Those wines will require little introduction, and there are a myriad of worse ways to form opinions on both farming and winemaking than between those four walls.

Nowadays he calls the Jura home, working specific plots around Arlay and Chateau Chalon. Prime turf in the centre of the region. It is the wines of a southern neighbour that immediately came to mind when tasting these. They were easily the most Labetesque (good, as they are also Labetesque ££) of the current alt Jura set that I have seen, showing that same tingling acidity and depth of flavour yet eschewing the bombastic nature of some, and the tendency toward VA of others.