BALLIN' OUT IN BURGUNDY (YET AGAIN) ⛹️‍♂️ (VIN NOE + GRINGET Xo)

Source note: This post is adapted from Parched's May 19, 2026 newsletter  

Hey,

Despite the dreary weather atm, it looks like we've got a cracking week ahead. SPF at the ready. Nothing beats good wine in the sun, so I've done a little shopping for us both.

Jonathan Purcell’s project is one I've followed closely, and IMO, he's one of the leading figures of the new generation of expat Burgundian vignerons. These wines always strike a chord, from the ethereal whole-bunch reds through the creative negociant range to the really pristine Chardo. Each year I make a pilgrimage to Burgundy for his Salon Hautes Les Mains, and this year will be no different. I tasted the '24s and top ‘23s as young samples and have now watched them flesh out over the course of the year in bottle. Perhaps not the most abundant vintage, but quality is, as ever, sky high.

After picking up experience across Australia, California, and South Africa, Jon landed in Burgundy, trained at the Institut Viticulture de Beaune, and found himself rubbing shoulders with the likes of Alex Foillard, Camille Lapierre, and Yann Bertrand. He went on to work with Philippe Pacalet, honing a delicate and traditional approach to winemaking.

Starting out focused on Gamay in Beaujolais, Jon has since turned his attention to Burgundy, recently leasing historic vineyards in Saint-Aubin and Puligny-Montrachet, previously farmed by polyculture pioneer Jean-Jacques Morel. Here he goes beyond organic, with a real focus on vineyard management, using animal traction wherever possible and paying close attention to every stage of cultivation.

This is Burgundy in its most authentic form, and from what I've tasted, some of the most exciting wine coming out of the region right now. The ever-creative negociant range adds even more to his bow, offering more affordability at the same level of deliciousness. We've just taken in a new tranche from his latest release.

Salt and Pepper is probably the most unlikely blend you'll find. Chasselas and Merlot from Baden, Pinot sourced closer to home. None of that really matters here. The whole point is vibrancy and drinkability. The aromatics are just gorgeous, pretty and perfumed, before a palate of liquid silk. A vin de soif par excellence.

Alsatian Riesling given a fresh face with a little Burgundian makeover, combining the grape's inherent acidity with the weight of something from the Côte d'Or. Taut and mineral, flinty and so fresh, with texture built through fermentation and time in barrel. Riesling vinified in barrel is one of the winemaking trends I wish to never go away.

Alibi is Jon's excellent take on Aligoté. Grassy and herbal, there's always such a lovely energy here, but with a nice balance too. Sharp but still refreshing. Of all the wines in the range, this one has become increasingly fine-tuned, one site in the Hautes-Côtes bringing freshness, the other in Meursault bringing body.

Pattaya is a great way to get a feel for how Jon handles Chardonnay. Very, very well, as it turns out. Bourgogne Blanc in name alone, not in quality. Fruit from near Saint-Aubin and Puligny. The house style sees a long, slow pressing coaxing as much flavour as possible from pristine primary material. Not much else is done, no tricks, left undisturbed in old barrel. Jon's style feels crisper than the more opulent things you'd find in these parts, but with real depth and character.

Gueule d'Amour is super sleek, about as fine-boned and lithe as Pinot gets. Plenty of whole bunch adding savoury spice, whisper-fine tannin, and so much vibrant fruit. A Pinot I could drink every day without getting bored.

Lucky star. Things get a little more serious here. Mercurey is so underrated. Here wines have a little more structure, sometimes a rustic, earthen quality that makes them feel more akin to something up in Nuits-Saint-Georges rather than the Côte Chalonnaise. I remember a caviste in Beaune calling this the best Mercurey he'd tasted all year. I'd say which shop, but that would be giving away my secrets. Let's just say, very high praise. True to the village: plenty of structure and earthy charm. True to the winemaker: an ethereal vibrancy.

We also have a tiny allocation of his top wines available. If you're interested in the details, please see here. These are spenny, but they are very special sites and well worth the splurge. Get in touch.

We've also just received a case of wine I never thought would see the light of day again. Monsieur Gringet. What a wine, too.

We sadly lost Savoie pioneer Dominique back in 2021, and whilst the legacy lives on in the form of Domaine Gringet, this bottle is from his last full vintage. It's a blend from three sites on the estate's hillside vines: the white marl of La Paille, the limestone scree of Chez Edouard, and the red marl and iron-rich clay of Le Feu. Aged for 18 months in concrete tanks, it's adorned with a beautiful label chosen specifically by Dominique's partner, Valérie. Bottled by Vincent Ruiz.

I remember drinking this at its initial release and being floored. Now, nearly six years on from the vintage, we have something truly spectacular. A real celebration of life, this is a bittersweet tribute to one of the wine world’s very greats.

Alongside it, I pleaded with the importer for the last three bottles of Lapalu's tribute to his dear friend. With the juice still fermenting, trusted friends were allowed to pay their respects by finishing off the vinification. Dominique was famed for his trad method fizz, but Lapalu has taken a more purist approach here, producing one of the most delicate and detailed pét-nats you'll find. It's soulful and soothing, chamomile-like and delicate. Liquid history, and a wine worth reflecting on. Once these are gone, they're gone.

There is also some excellent wine, albeit in tiny quantities, from Vincent and Co, who are now at the helm of the prestigious estate. See here!

Finally, your last chance to join us at Dans tonight for a brilliant evening of cool-climate wines. Revitalising bottles from the Rheinhessen, with Bianla Schmitt on hand to pour and answer any questions about this pioneering estate. Guaranteed good times. Come say hi!

Further down the line, we will be opening an unfathomable amount of library stock from Craig and Carla Hawkins. 2012 Skinsy Chenin? ‘14 Cortez. Shhhh. Absolute rares, probably the only chance you’ll have to ever taste these FYI. Monday 8th June. One for the ages.

Bisou
Fionn
xoxo