THE FRENCH DISPATCH đïž
by Megan Jones
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Whatâs up winos,
Megan here, back from a very impromptu hop over to the fairer side of Europe. Predictably boozy, hectic and mental but also, ya know, productive (I promise, Dan!).
Our own RĂ©mi Dufaitre hosted a salon at his winery on Monday and we jumped at the chance to head over there. Not only because RĂ©mi has friends in high places (met LâAnglore and Derain, to name-drop a few), but because any chance to spend time at his beautiful winery and taste his juicy bottlings is a chance Iâm going to take.
The sun was shining and the birds were singing (a little too loudly for our fragile, hungover heads) so we decided to walk the hour to the domaine. Brouilly being a pretty small town, I thought word would spread quickly that three idiot foreigners were walking along the side of the road swigging beer at 11am, and I was only slightly disappointed that we didnât get picked up by the police.
We made it in one piece and immediately made a beeline for RĂ©miâs station. The wines were all tasting absolutely cracking, so if you havenât got around them yet, now the sunâs out, thereâs no excuse. All the reds do beautifully with a little chill on them, and his Beaujolais Blanc is another example of why you shouldnât be sleeping on this style, so often relegated to the realm of the afterthought.
We spent a little time with Mosse (Fionn spent a LOT of time with Mosse later on, leaving me alone at the dinner table eating my still-mooing steak for what felt like an hour as he chewed his ear off outside) tasting through their crackling Chenins, then headed over to see Cambon, whose top cuvee is maybe my favourite red wine Iâve ever tasted? Not in the UK tho, sorry about it, but his entry levels arenât to be sniffed at either. We also had the chance to taste through the whole Dutraive range, which are a great option if you like your Beaujolais on the classic, fuller bodied side. Checked out the wines from Derain as well, maybe Fionnâs all time favourite, and Julien was such a treat - maybe you should meet your heroes, after all? - and then of course got in some face time with LâAnglore. Youâll notice I havenât linked that one, coz obvi theyâre impossible to get in the UK, so we hung around his station for far too long, hoping to get a second taster.
After the tasting the evening segued into a long, boozy dinner (at which we were conspicuously the only non-French people, perhaps the reason why the seats either side of us were left empty, lol) and then we jumped in a taxi to get some much needed shut eye.
The next day was a predictably slow start, but we eventually made our way over to Domaine Valma. Perhaps forgetting that we werenât still in London, we thought that the wait time for an Uber would be somewhere in the realm of five minutes, but it turned out to be more like four hours, so StĂ©phane kindly came and picked us up before driving us over to La Madone, one of their stunningly beautiful sites. We headed back to the winery to try the â24s from barrel, which are tasting R-I-D-I-C-U-L-O-U-S. Thereâll be a bit of a wait on those, but worry not - the â23s are also absolutely singing right now, and theyâre in the warehouse just waiting for you to come grab âem. Thereâs the new cuvee for this year, Face B from a northwest facing plot so itâs extra fresh, La Madone, complex, herbal and vibrant, Les Labourons, their supposed âentry-levelâ which drinks like a dream, and Les Rangs Tard, a slightly later-ripening plot thatâs concentrated and aromatic. Fionn and Jaime then went off to Manuel Girard, where apparently he opened every single vintage of every single wine heâs ever made, while I headed to the airport (somebodyâs gotta pack those orders, amirite?).
Thatâs all for now, I need to go put my brain in the washing machine and see if thatâll finally get rid of this hangover. Pray 4 me.
xoxo
Megan