ALSACE ALLOCATION

Hello you lovely lot,

Thanks to the wonders of email marketing, as you read this, I’ll hopefully be basking in the sun somewhere in Beaujolais. The weather is looking marginally better than Dalston’s right now. It’s the small things, right? While I’m busy schmoozing with a few producers, (more on that this Thursday), let’s take a little detour via Alsace.

Last week’s tasting marathon kicked off at 9am sharp and I can think of worse ways to start the week. These first wines stood with me throughout the day. Last year they sold out fast, so I thought I’d better be quicker this time around. Logging in on Tuesday and the supplier said they’d basically all gone. Note to self, be even quicker next time. Barely any made it to our shores, and with the importer's stocks now depleted, you’ve got one chance.

La Ferme Des 9 Chemins is nestled at the very top of Alsace, in the hills above Reichsfeld, where the landscape feels distinctly un-Alsatian. You won’t find the monoculture of endless vines here. Instead, it’s all meadows, livestock, and a lot of biodiversity. Jeanne Gaston-Breton has been farming her family’s vines since 2017 (Biodynamic +++). Most of the exceptional fruit has ended up in the capable hands of the likes of Yannick Meckert and Benoit Rosenburger, but now she is carving out a little for herself. Jeanne works with only gravity in her tiny cellar, creating wines with a delicate touch.

Les Terrasses Blanc is easily the best Auxerrois I’ve tasted. Mineral, crisp, and punching well above its weight. Le Chemin des Loups has the juiciest fruit of the bunch but still with a wickedly mineral finish. Hay Di! comes from a parcel on clay/limestone accentuating Riesling’s natural acidity. Zesty, steely, salty. All good things. Montagne de Schiste is Riesling on, you guessed it, schist. Golden in the glass, and with time, it opens up with flinty, smoky layers. Mind-bendingly good.

Leo Dietrich next, another talented young grower I met while celebrating 500 years of Beck-Hartweg. As part of the festivities, they invited their neighbors in Dambach-la-Ville to showcase their wines, and Leo’s left quite an impression. I’m thrilled a small amount of his wine has finally made its way here.

Rittersberg, the Lieu-Dit of Beck-Hartweg fame, is a warm southeast-facing plot. Leo harvested a little earlier this year to ensure freshness. Gewürz at the best of times can struggle in this department, but not here. It’s aromatic for sure, but think more pomelo and citrus than walking into a Body Shop. Remember Lilt? Yeah, that kind of vibe.

His Pinot Noir is rusticly charming, from a little north-facing plot surrounded by forest. Earthen berry fruit and a touch of smoke. The finish just goes on and on.

All these wines are in small quantities, so it’s first come, first served!Oh, ICYMI Ar Pe Pe are coming to Dan’s. Do I need to say anymore?

ILY,

Fionn

xoxo