FINE WINE FOR FINE TIMEZ š
by Megan Jones
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Whatās up winos,
Gd wknd? Hope you all got out into that unseasonable sun which has, seasonably, already disappeared. Time to hibernate again? Just when Iād taken all my cute summer tops out of storage (the back of my wardrobe). Sigh.
Luckily thereās no time to be bummed out when the arrivals keep on coming. I have a shopping problem, sue me.
On one of my recent Paris trips (I know, I hate me too) I was on the hunt for a delicious, vinous, gastronomic Champagne (a very relatable hunt, Iām sure), and was recommended Domaine de Bichery. The bottle we had blew my head off. We drankĀ La Source, the flagship wine of the domaine, equal parts Pinot and Chardy taken from the estateās ten plots. It was laser-precise, rich and indulgent, mineral, citrus-y with a hint of brioche. It was so good we actually waited until we finished the bottle before opening another one, which, if youāve ever seen us on the lash, youāll know is saying something. I also picked up theirĀ blanc de noirs, a delicious medley of white stone fruit and juicy red fruit, full of honey, florals and baking spices. These are so, so proper. Is the arrival of spring something people celebrate? It should be, and these are the wines to do it with.
Hailing from further down in France, we were treated to a visit from Cecilia of La Mariota last week, and what a treat it was. Originally from Argentina, Cecilia and her partner Guillermo did hospitality stints in London and Paris before seeking out that good old country life down in the Roussillon, where they put their considerable talents towards making some of the most interesting, elegant wines Iāve tried in a good long while. They both put in the work withĀ Domaine Danjou-Banessy and Cyril Fhal before setting up their own project - eight hectares in Vingrau and Tautavel. They work organically, with judicious sulphur adds at bottling when necessary, and favour long ageing both during fermentation and in bottle so the wines are ready to go upon release.
Kicking off with the whites, we have theĀ Bac de las Coves BlancĀ - 100% Grenache Blanc. Not a series of words that usually gets me excited, but that was before I tried this. Textured, round and salty, itās such a nuanced yet complex take on what can sometimes be (sorry) a bit of a boring grape. TheĀ Roc de la VellaĀ is mostly Macabeu with a dash of Roussanne - fresh, light and citrusy but imbued with serious smoky depth and a hint of florals.Ā La Nereda sees the unlikely marriage of Muscat Ć Petits Grains and Roussanne, with intriguing and delicious results. Petrol aromas and florals co-mingle for a bottling thatāll keep you guessing down to the last glass.
On to the reds -Ā Le Vol des Etourneaux, or the āsparrow thievesā - a reference to the absolute rinsing the local birds did to the vines one year - is just gorgeous. Beautifully aromatic, wonderfully light with wild red fruit and a stunning savoury finish, this is one for the summer, or for now, if you canāt wait until then. Rounding out the range is theĀ Bac de las Coves Rouge, full of crunchy, sweet red and black fruit and violet florals. Stick it in the ice bucket and watch it disappear.
Elsewhere in France (yes, still France! What a country!) we had a little top up of the latest Jura up and comers,Ā Maison des Saules. Last time these went out the door quicker than you can say Savagnin, so be fast if you want to be in with the cool crowd.
Finally, we had a large top up of the beautiful wines of our ownĀ Vincent GrossĀ in the form of two teetering pallets at the end of last week. Vincent is in town this week (c u at the tasting tomorrow if you were lucky enough to get a ticket!), and heās brought with him a new cuvee - the re-imaginedĀ Rhapsodie, now a blend of Gewurz, Riesling and Muscat, a masterful balance of aromatics and spice. Also back in stock is Vincentās top maceration,Ā GoldāR, with all fruit coming from the Goldert Grand Cru. Plus top ups of all his other banging cuvees. If you havenāt got around these yet, nowās the time.
One last (non-French) item - last chance to snap up tickets to our tasting withĀ Ar Pe Pe. Gonna be a beautiful evening, donāt miss out!
Love u!
xoxo
Megan