NEW WAVE NÉGOCE 🌊

Hey you lovely lot,

Been putting my tastebuds through some serious work. On Monday, I took the day off from the WH to hit as many trade tastings as I physically could. Honestly, I’d need a few more hands to count them all, but I managed six, which I think is pretty solid. Palate fatigue? Never heard of it. Plenty of exciting stuff on the way…

In the meantime, the new vintage just landed from Ori Vin. ICYMI here’s the story… When lockdown hit and with her parents near Toulouse, Ori decided to swap dreary London for the bucolic Gaillac. She was lucky enough to cross paths with Laure & Pierre Fabre of Domaine Gayrard, who took her in, and she learned everything she could in their vineyards/cellar. In 2021, Ori had the opportunity to make her own wine, and hasn’t looked back since. Farming biodynamically on clay-limestone soils, she’s technically négoce, but she knows these vines deeply and treats them as her own. Despite being a relative newcomer, Ori’s wines are so accomplished. Working with no additions and producing some of the cleanest ‘natural’ wines I’ve tasted. She swung by Dan’s last week to show these off and let’s just say they’re singing….

Her take on Gamay is hands down my favorite expression of one of my fav grapes. Dazzling blue fruit that reminds me of tearing off the wrappers of those purple Starbursts as a kid. It's not overly fruity or confected mind, just emotive like only the best wines should be. I love the herbaceous, garrigue-like quality from the Gaillac too. It’s equal parts smashable and serious. Que Shira Shira (what a name btw) is a fizz that is FUN with fine bubbles. Think juicy strawberries and sherbet. Why aren’t more people making pet-nat with Syrah? Mambo Mai Mai is a new skinsy offering. Smoky and saline upfront, with more stone fruit and tropical tones showing with air. Give it a little decant or time in the cellar and any reduction will melt right in. If you’re impatient, just give it a good swirl. With a modest ABV this slides effortlessly from bottle to glass. Beaut labels too.

We’ve also a tiny drop of rarities from another hugely talented ex-pat winemaker, Hannah Fuellenkemper. Her Abracadabra project has reached cult status across the pond, and after catching up with her on Monday, I can totally see why. No big bucks behind this project—just pure passion. The  grapes are from all over and the wines are full of energy. The labels are hand painted and thus unique. She works alone and with no pump either. Lo-Fi winemaking, Hi-Fi quality. Check out her substack/Insta for a peek into the tough life of a négociant in the Auvergne! All super limited…

oKKuLLTT reminds me of hot cross buns. Yep, rum raisin, candied orange fruit, with a hint of herb and smoke.

bAsTeT is carignan infused in Bourboulenc juice. My kind of bath. Made for splashing around with sour cherry and a subtle green grip.

sEcOué 2021 is a true collector’s item, the last batch with clear bottles. Let the world see that stunning color! Full of wild strawberries, spice, and all things nice.

bAbbO diScO is Grignolino from Piedmont that’s rich enough to please your dad but fresh enough to crush on its own. Savory and herbal, it’s perfect for food or aging—preferably both. With quantities so limited you’ll have to make your mind up quick.

Finally a few strays of the hydrating dEAd cAt sTRat(egy). Saline and super fresh this is like if isotonic sports drinks did a wine.

That it’s it for this week,
Fionn
xoxo