šLIQUID LIGURIA š
by Megan Jones
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Hey, Fionn again! We had a blast at yesterday's Fondue event. Thanks all for coming down and bringinā only the best vibes. Danās is still stinking of cheese but totallyĀ worth it. Speaking of excellent events FEDELLOS tickets areĀ here.Ā These are some of my favās from Spain. Make Monday a fun day, donāt sleep. Also,Ā Terroir al LimitĀ over at Kenās just a few days later. C U THERE.
Onto the wines and today Iāve just gotta talk about the wines fromĀ Possa! These are some of the most unique and utterly delicious wines Iāve tasted in quite some time. They also happen to be quite frankly insane value considering the literal back-breaking work that goes into them. Heydi Bonanini is the man behind this inspiring project who works with local Ligurian varieties in the world heritage site of the Cinque Terre. If youāre not familiar, like I was, google it. Insanely beautiful right? Not only that but his vineyards sit on silly steep slopes, so steep they have to use a monorail to just get around. Just bonkers. Even more nuts is that the first few rows of vines meet the ocean and are harvested by boat! Talk about dedication.
Biodiversity is rife in the vineyards, and for Heydi this is not just an aim but a true way of life. Many of the locals have left the winemaking tradition behind with the vines being too much hard graft. Thankfully, Heydi is not work-shy andĀ believes deeply in this special part of the world and the one-off local varieties that you just donāt see elsewhere. What a king.
Cinque TerreĀ is my pick of the bunch saline, herbal, richly textured but still so fresh.
U GiancuĀ is another salt-bomb of a wine with fleshy stone fruit and aromatic spice dialedĀ up.
ParmaeaĀ uses fruit sourced from a tiny island just off the Ligurian Coast. Again, highly recommend using Google to vicariously transport yourself to these sunnier parts. Mr Bonanini was quite simply the only winemaker who could do these grapes justice. The 2020 has fleshed out beautifully in bottle with its fleshy orchard fruit, waxy texture, and again that signature saline minerality that runs through all the wines.
If youāre into more Skinsy stuff thenĀ U VeciuĀ is the one for you. Named aptly āThe Eldersā as a homage to how his Grandfather used to vinify. So, we've gotĀ three gentle months on the skins for the local Rossese Bianco. Never heard of it either, but boy is it delicious. Flinty reduction blows off to reveal citrus and herbs, and a hint of honey.
Also,Ā U NeigruĀ is a delicious red. Lush cherry fruit is on show but this is still lean and mean due to just a short 5-day skin soak. Heydi likes to use local wood like they did in the past. Chestnut is used here, which unlike big broody American oak doesnāt mask the grapes. Instead, it frames the fruit nicely and helps to bring some aromatic lift. I could wax lyrical about these wines all day soĀ pop into Danās for a fun lecture if you like. I urge you to try these. Not many wines manage to capture their terroir quite like these do. Trust me, do some googling, andĀ youāll thank me later.
Also, for you Jura heads we keep on bringing in the very best from the region to keep you all happy. A little bit of Tournelle just landed. Uva Arbosiana was the first Poulsard that got me hooked on this lithe, fragrant grape. So pure, so fresh. Trousseau from the only Lieu Dit, you need to be paying attention to, Les Corvées. A couple of whites from 2020 complete the bunch. This was the last vintage before the tragic passing of Pascal. Topped up mineral Chardy here, and a spiced Savagnin here. A touch of top-shelf Benoit too cause we're just that damn good.
Enough rambling, happy shopping!
FionnĀ
XOXO