Things that make you go mmmmm

G’day,

I am fully aware that the majority of you, however misguided it may be, do subscribe to more than one wine related email and that said emails are absolutely gushing with Gamay de France related chat ATM, so today, on the day of all days, I will be different.

You may have missed my previous complaints as to having ordered and subsequently received a 20ft shipping container full of wine from Australia, and having to manually unload it all on the lovely streets of Dalston. I’m slowly gaining an appreciation of the theory of cause and effect, mostly relating to back pain and a lack of storage space. Fortunately the booze is good, which makes the struggle so worthwhile.

In the most recent lot there was a coupla new producers, which is always ultra exciting if a little nerve wracking. Courtship, falling in love sight unseen, things becoming real, the juice gently caressing the glassware, the wine entering the mouth…

Sorry. It seems I’ve been reading a bit too much Murakami.

What I want to talk about is Breaking Ground, the next-gen fuelled spinoff from Hunter stalwarts, the Margan Family.

As a kid on what seemed like the endless drive up to Blueys the olds would pull into a few cellar doors just off the Old Pacific Highway. Perhaps this is why the journey felt like it did. The Margan cellar door was always a happy hunting ground for them and their fellow Sydney based professionals escaping the big smoke for a bit of January RnR. Many years later the Margan wines were also pleasant hunting grounds for your truly during my formative years of wine consumption, generously if unknowingly donated by my lovely parents (hi mum and dad). But, as with all things in life, fashions change and we look to new horizons for vinous pleasure, and the Hunter hasn’t really been on my radar for many years now. Woe is me.

There’s a bit of a resurgence happening with the younger crop coming through. They’ve all spent time in the big smoke, are mates with the domestic movers and shakers of hospo and have their fingers on the pulse in regards to farming, modern wine styles and what people are actually drinking. The reviews of Breaking Ground, amongst other similar Hunter local producers and the various wines from people whom I trust back in Aus are glowing. There are harks back to the world leading wines of the 50’s and 60’s. Balance is the new marker, alongside freshness and varietal interest. It’s an enviable combination, dangerous even. But don’t be scared.

What we have is a coupla whites and a coupla reds. One of each is a modern take on a regional classic, and the other a nod to the new, with alternate varieties having found a lovely home and flourished.

The Albarino is widely regarded as best in class, and it is tasty as. 50% on skins, 50% in tank, it shows lovely fruit yet pithy grip and texture.

Their Chardy sees the oak dialled back and the goal of producing a lighter bodied, ultra refreshing white wine has been achieved with aplomb. Very easy 2 like.

A Barbera that is made for the fridge without being made for the fridge. Perfect timing after we see snow in London…  Crunchy, herbal, fruity in all the right places. Go.

And finally, Cabernets, the only thing that could be less sxc than the Hunter is Cabernets, so its cool to see the ode that two wrongs make a right is in fact correct. Wine bits are done quick, with shorter maceration and less time in barrel giving brightness and tonnes of drinkability.

The whole lot can be seen online here, and drunk IRL wherever you want!

GTG, mum is calling, she’s not happy

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