NICE THINGS🎁
by Megan Jones
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Hello Fionn today. Feels like ages!
I’ve had plenty of R&R in the last few weeks, plenty of nice bottles, and plenty to chat about today.
Firstly, a new cuvee from Domaine Dandelion (my favourite producer). Impossible to find on a recent trip to Paris yet for once we have more than a case. A new iteration of fruit that previously made up their Rosie Red. The same sandy, south-facing parcels yet concentration has been dialed UP. Silky with extreme drink-ability. A little decant did wonders. Odds and ends of the ‘22s are miraculously still on the shelves. Coming into their own now, I can think of no better time to crack into one as we roll through the festive season.
Whilst in the region we’ve just received some gear from Pierre-Henri Rougeot. The family estate is iconic in Mersault, yet PH has still found time to mess around with a negociant range. King. I’m very keen on his approach in the cellar. Sulfur, where possible, is avoided. However, if necessary, small homeopathic doses will be used on barrels as seen fit. There is no religious dogma here just a Vigneron making the best wine possible. The way it should be. The reds are mainly whole clusters whilst the whites are textured and layered. There is vibrancy and class aplenty across the range. Go nuts.
It was a welcome surprise to see Buronfosse land in my absence. Neighbours in Rotalier with a certain Mr Ganevat (I sneaked some online this week with a few Negoce bottles still live). There is a similarity in all but price and availability. The Poulsard in particular could be my favourite of the year, approachable without too much of that ‘funky’ reduction. This is a complicated region and I was sadly informed in Wink Lorch’s latest book that the future of the estate is uncertain. Join me, and go all in whilst we still can.
What else? A new Ham Street Chardonnay. IMO England's best expression to date. Fermented and aged for 20 months in an old Burg barrel. Usually I prefer not to taste any barrel in my wine, the sole exception being for wines made without input. I love how the oak mingles with the very much alive fruit. This being a prime example. The oak is subtle and masterful allowing minerality to take centre stage. 2022 was the last proper summer we had and this feels suitably round for Kent whilst remaining a brisk English acid line. Blind, we could be in the Mâconnais. Honestly, this slaps. Aging potential for sure and this will no doubt be a reference point for English Chardonnay in years to come. Stupidly limited (under 300 bottles produced). Get to ‘em before I do.
Limited again but somehow still available. Specials from Angeli of Ferme de la Sansonnière fame. I’ve never seen these available in the UK before and I doubt you’ll see them again—final warning. If you need to be acquainted with the house style we have an abundance of the new La Lune 23’s. What else? Oh yes, arguably one of the world’s most gastronomic Rosés. Late ripening Grolleau, so a smidge of RS, make this the ideal pairing for the cheese board. Bargain too. The Red is also a benchmark for what good Grolleau should taste like to. What ya waitin’ for?
TICKETS 4 SHINY NEW EVENTS IN A SHINY NEW YEAR BELOW. I could go on + on + on but boxes need to be unpacked and then repacked! Allocations 2 secure! The usual…
Speak soon,
Fionn
xoxo