good at being bad at not picking good wine
by Fionn Reidy
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G’day,
Bad week to be a bottle of shit-hot wine from a famous growing region in France. Bad week to be a bottle of wine from anywhere TBH. Welcome back, SS25.
A 2-4-1 Geography lesson coming up for anyone keen.
Chablis is in Burgundy, but it is quite far north. They also have different soils, or different types of soil anyway. The top spots, or at least back when they made the rules, were outcrops of Kimmeridgian limestone, and the lesser parts (this historically meaning cooler as it used to be marginal AF) were on Portlandian limestone. These days, as with most things, the boundaries are blurred, and whilst you can occasionally get worldies from anywhere, Chablis, and indeed the whole of Burgundy is an area just to focus on the producer and whether they’re safe hands or not.
Enter safe hands.
The JP and Benny Droin clan have been doing it for almost 500 years, they’ve also been making wine for about 500 years. They know what’s what. These are muscular expressions, much like myself, drawing intensity from old vines, low yields and a bit of barrel work. I rate them, and have done since first sip. We’ve just taken a lively allocation of their 2023’s, all the way from Petit Chablis to 1er Cru. So good I’ve put three magnums aside for my little one’s 18th. Cute. That should be all you need to know. Light up your weekend right here.
Heading south to the heart of Burgundy, and a village that dials up the levels of seduction to borderline levels of social acceptability. The wines of Ghislaine Barthod should come with a warning. VERY YUMMY. The way things are going I wouldn’t be surprised if that became a requirement in the near future anyway, regulated by a further group of numpties. I may be bitter, but what isn’t is the Barthod range of reds from in and around Chambolle Musigny. They’re deffo collectors items, and we’re stoked to be able to offer out a tiny mixed allocation, so if you like super nice things and are predisposed to parting with potentially serious £££ on wine then you are SO WELCOME.
In even more hectic allocation land are the wines of Prieuré Roch and lately Antonio Quari. These are fully IYKYK level of cult status, and we have to sign a piece of paper saying we won’t sell them online. But if you happen to be in Dalston and wanna drink semi-well then swing by the bar, as these are now in the fridge at optimum temperature and the team would be so, so thrilled to open them for you.
And lastly, in what is the perfect tonic for a mild spring Saturday afternoon, we have the good folk from Jumi Cheese down at Dan’s knocking out toasties from 2pm.
Jumi are the source of our spectacular rotation of Swiss cheese in the bar, which, speaking from experience, is potentially even better melted onto a carbohydrate source. This will be busy, so come past early for a bite and some refreshment. No tickets or reservations needed, just rock up hungry and preferably thirsty.
xoxo
Dan