Alsatian Allocation

Hey,

Fionn again! Let’s get straight to the wine this week… 🙂

I love Alsatian wine. It’s currently a real hotbed of up-and-coming talent and there’s plenty of winemakers trying to reinvigorate what’s often a misunderstood region. Anaïs Fanti is one of them. I’ve admired her wines for a while, but they’ve yet to make it to our shelves thanks to the tiny volumes hitting the UK. Thankfully, we’ve scored some this time around.

Based in Ammerschwihr in southern Alsace, Anaïs comes from a family of grape growers. She originally worked in nursing before spending time in Georgia (the birthplace of wine), where she found her calling and returned home to become the third generation to tend the family vines. She’s now working with just 1.5 hectares, focusing on Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, and Auxerrois. There’s a strong emphasis on sustainable farming and a push to restore biodiversity in a region where monoculture dominates. The setup is simple, just a few vats, barrels, and an old press but the results are breathtaking. Her wines are thoughtful, precise, and incredibly expressive: the most accomplished, restrained Gewürz, and invigorating, playful reds/roses.

Habibi Cheri shows Gewürz at its most delicate: all zest and fine florals. It was singing on day two when I had a glass at a mate’s place. Costa Rawa leans into spice—almost Szechuan-like. It’s a wine that makes you pause and think. Pampa Rosa is a smoky rosé full of blood orange and wild berries. Finally, Lova Lova is a more mineral, earthy take on Pinot, but still fluid and vibrant. And yes, the labels are just as gorgeous as the wines. Extremely limited though, so once they’re gone, they’re gone!🙁

I’ve also been hunting for value as summer approaches. My wine consumption tends to rise drastically with the temperature. Sadly my bank balance doesn’t follow suit.

Veneto is a region where value is easy to find, but quality not so much. It’s become the epicenter for mass-produced plonk poured by the gallon in pub gardens. Thankfully, not everyone’s gone to the dark side. Daniele is doing something special here, championing the near-extinct Durella grape. Known for its ferocious acidity, he blends with a touch of Garganega for balance. It’s salty, herbal, citrusy, and officially my new go-to. There is also a slightly wilder bottle here from the Ardèche: richer, riper, but with a gentle spritz to keep things lively. A steal. Think stone fruits and garrigue herbs. Both are coming along to my first BBQ of the year.

Might as well finish on a high, both in price and quality. Comando G quite simply make some of the best Garnacha (Grenache to you and me) on the planet. High up in the Gredos mountains, they take a Burgundian approach and probably need no introduction. We've just landed two new vintages of their ‘village’ wines: Navatalgordo and Rozas, and both are drinking beautifully RIGHT now. Seriously, they’re on fire from the get-go. Then there’s Las Umbrias: floral, fine-boned, and built for the long haul. Las Iruelas, grown on quartz and slate, is all tension and texture. It’s still a baby but give it time, and it’ll blossom into something truly special. Grenache doesn’t get better. IFYKYK. A few hot strays of the rest of the range too.

Also, another reminder we’ve got a silly value tasting next week. Burgundy-style elegance with a Southern Hemisphere pulse from Storm. You can’t drink wine this good, anywhere, for this cheap. Srsly. What are you doing? Add 2 Cart Immediately. See you there.

Fionn
xxx