Clos des Mourres

Ingrid and Jean-Philippe took over the family business in 2012, including 10ha of vineyards planted to a wide range of varieties, both local and imported, mostly grown on sand. The added to this with an astute purchase in Cairanne, taking control on a thankfully north facing plot on the Col du Débat. The soils here are mostly clay over solid limestone. Viticulture has been organic since inception, with particular attention being paid to biodiversity in their vineyards in Vaison-la-Romaine, just outside the back door. Inter-rows are all planted to native herbs, and on the day I visited they were busy planting several rows of olive trees to provide a natural form of protection from the Mistral which blows strongly through these valleys. Volcanic SO2 treatments for the soil are also being experimented with, imported from Sicily. The local growers here are big on knowledge transfer and there seemed a genuine sense of community in trying to preserve and promote the natural environment. In the winery the work is lo-fi, with SO2 used only when absolutely necessary. Fermentation is in a combination of vaslin, fibreglass and ceramics. Fining and filtration are eschewed in favour of natural settling and the subsequent wines are full of vitality and character. These wines are full of life, incredibly drinkable, and come at a price that feels almost too good for the quality.