BEAUTIES FROM BUGEY + SAVOIE

Hello,

Fionn today from a very lonely warehouse. Not sure if I mentioned it, but I recently had the pleasure of going on a little jolly through Jura, Bugey and Savoie. Lucky me, right? Anyway, there were a couple of things I tasted in the cellars that were so good, I begged for them to be put on reserve before they even landed back in the UK.

First up, a pair of Vin Jaunes that blew my mind. The Fumey Chatelain ’16 is, according to Marin, one of the best vintages on record. If the 4am drinking session that followed is anything to go by, I’d have to agree. It’s got full-on drinkability without losing any of that classic flor character. Big into it.

Then there’s Domaine de la Pinte, the OGs. Organic and biodynamic before it was trendy. Mr. Chatillon used to run the cellar here, and while the estate is on the larger side for Jura, quality and attention to detail are still next level. This wine is rare rare. Like, it didn’t exist in the UK until last week. Only 12 bottles have made it in and two are now in our possession, but likely not for long. This is benchmark Chateau Chalon: curried spice, nuts, citrus. You've got one shot.


 After a few lively days in and around Arbois, we headed down to Bugey and Savoie. First stop: Tailleurs Cueilleurs – which means "pruners-pickers." A tiny, passionate project based in Saint-Jean-le-Vieux, in the northern reaches of Bugey. They farm with serious care: organic and biodynamic, no ploughing, letting grasses run wild to keep the vineyards cool and fight climate change. They’ve started planting fruit trees too, adding to an already diverse ecosystem.

In the cellar, grapes are de-stemmed, pressed, and macerated depending on the cuvée. No SO2 from harvest to bottling. Everything’s aged in demi-muids and bottled straight from barrel, unfiltered, by gravity. These wines really moved me. They’re spiced, alpine, and brimming with energy.

We've got the most accomplished ancestral fizz I’ve tasted. Crème fraîche, rhubarb, rosehips. The tiniest hint of sugar makes it incredibly moreish. Then a younger vine Gamay that’s one of the most unique and beautiful expressions of grape and place I’ve come across. Alpine herbs and serious minerality make it both silky and structured. This is from older vine Gamay (with a touch of Mondeuse) and is an aromatic knockout. Sumac spice and a high-toned purity I’ve really been missing in Gamay from warmer climes.

Finally, their white is sourced from a bit of négoce fruit this year down in Burgs. Chalky, mineral and with a little spritz that adds even more energy. Destined for greatness. This unfurls beautifully. One of my fav discoveries of the year! Check ‘em out.

Down in Savoie, we’ve got the new releases from Sonjon. Who is such an underrated name on the shelves. Visiting the vineyards and cellars overlooking the lake totally clicked it into place. Complices is cooling, delicate, and just so pretty with its dandelion like freshness. The Altesse nails that balance between texture and tension. Apricots, elderflowers and again, minuscule quantities in the UK.

Finally, their Pinot + Gamay blend is very much up there with some of the better Burgundian bottles I’ve had this year. Cherries, herbs and a depth of flavour whilst still being ridiculously drinkable. Cheaper than neighboring regions too..

That’s all! I hope you all have a great weekend filled with plenty of the good stuff.

Speak soon

Fionn

xoxo