BALL OUT ON BARBERESCO ⛹️

Morning! You’ve got Fionn today.

Autumn feels like it’s already hit, hit hard. This shift feels especially evident as when choosing a bottle I’ve been drawn into the red zone. Don’t get it twisted. I still don’t want the overcooked jam served to me at WSET or the stuff my Nan used to drink with her overcooked roast. Sorry Nan. Sorry not sorry WSET. But, I do want things with a little more structure, a little more oomph.

Piedmont, in particular, feels very apt for the weather. The Olek Bondonio bottles couldn’t have arrived at a better time. Despite being a relative newcomer, these are some of the most sought-after bottles from those in the know. He’s hands-on in the vineyard, hands-off in the cellar. Working with some of the finest sites and exhibiting a patient approach far beyond his years.

First, we have this beauty. Grape variety = Pelaverga. Yup, that is a new one for me too. If I could liken it to anything else I’d say it’s like an Italian Pineau D’Aunis?Sorry, on second notice I guess another niche variety is probably not the best reference point. Essentially, this is a pretty and perfumed red. Light, bright, full of strawberries and white pepper spice. The aforementioned top sites lend a whisper of tannin. Don’t judge a book by its cover, this is pure class. Perfect wine.

Things take a pretty serious upward turn as we venture into Barbaresco land. If you’re a Nebb nerd then you’ll know these sites are where we want to be. Despite Roncagliette sounding like a niche pasta shape, it is actually a top Cru producing some stellar wines that command stellar prices. A quick Google search of the Gaja equivalent made my eyes pop out of their sockets. Expect the same, if not better, quality here. You also won’t have to auction off a kidney to get your hands on one either. Coming from the cool 2021 vintage, this is a masterclass in texture and tannin. God only knows, what time in the cellar will do. Get in early, because prices of this are going only one way and it ain’t down.

Starderi is also a serious site. Refreshingly the soft, sandy soils mean the often astringent Nebbiolo is ready from the get-go. Usually, I’d advise giving Barbaresco as much rest as possible. Not here. This is a go-er. Burgundian vibes, especially in this vintage. Yes, time will do no harm, but when things are this good, why wait?

Continuing on from the baller theme, why don’t I mention some elite fizz for good measure? Oliver Horiot is one you wanna watch this. Clean as a whistle, flinty, and full of finesse. All done without a smidgen of SO2. Bravo. No dosage so expect a racy Blanc De Noir of the highest order.

Lavals Rose is a gastronomic, mind-bending fizz. One that requires contemplation, time, and for god’s sake, a good glass. Citrus, spice, fruit, and florals. This has it all. Insider tip, we might have a bit more from our Laval allocation coming soon, keep those eyes peeled…

Pretty wallet crushing so far so I’ll end on something a bit less financially damaging. Balthazar usually commands the silly prices mentioned above. Thankfully, the king of Cornas has kindly blessed us with a more budget-friendly bottling made with fruit from friends. You can’t beat this CdR. Delicate, juicy fruit and fine, fuzzy tannin. The perfect mid-weight, mid-week wine for the seasonal change.

ICYMI, we’re hosting a Salon. Not the hair ‘n’ nails kind but what the French like to call their wine-y gatherings. A classy, piss up if you will down on the dreamy Dalston Riveria. Come say hi!